Tag Archives: true metal

Artel W Miniatures: Red Angel Bust

This is my first ever bust. Normally I am wary of these things because skin tones are not something I have experience with, and this thing costs a lot of money. But it actually depicts Angron in a way I really like (not just some foam-in-the-mouth berserker), so I bought it. (They have a small Angron, too, if you are interested.)

The package is pretty cool – you do feel you have a premium model in your hand. Black box with foam packed parts – now I finished the model I really do not know what to do with it, because it would be a shame to discard it.

I painted and built the bust over three years; I just never had the fortitude to get on with it. (I was afraid to fail.) The assembly is simple, and the model fits well (apart from a seamline on the back, which I will cover with a piece of chain. If you paint after assembly it can be easily filled with putty. The head fits in wonderfully: the bottom is rounded, and fits into its “socket” in one way only without the use of locating pins or pegs; I found it pretty neat.

Anyhow, I painted the base of the armor using Vallejo’s gold, then gave it depth using several layers of AK Interactive’s true metal gold, old bronze and copper.

Most of the other colors were achieved with oil paints (with some acrylic help when I needed a strong coverage). Overall I am pretty pleased with the results. Absolutely recommended; this bust will most definitely stand out on any model collection… Now I just need to get a stand for this guy.

Smart Resin Models: Ethernal Eagle (the Big E himself), Alternative Heads

In a previous post I showed Emperor with his helmet on. I am working on the alternative heads…

I have to say the heads look a bit tiny compared to his body. I left the eyes just white- it suggests some big psychic force, plus saves me trying to paint the iris… Looking at the photos I also need to work a bit more on the skin, but hey, until the new power claw arrives I have some time.

Smart Resin Models: Ethernal Eagle (the Big E himself), WIP 2

I guess He will be a constant participant for this blog, as I have some heads to finish, and I also am waiting for an alternative weapon to arrive (I do not necessarily like the flaming sword).

Anyhow, this is He, the Master of Mankind, at his present state. The sword, for now, is only attached using blue-tac – to be magnetized later. The heads are already magnetized.

I was thinking about doing some object source lightning on the flames, then I just said, nah. I like how he turned out and would not risk ruining it…

If you buy the larger version of the miniature, you can add LED lightning to them as they come in a transparent form.

Forgeworld: Magnus the Red

Finally it seems like the curse has been broken, and I managed to find inspiration to finish Magnus.

As I mentioned the white cape did not turn out well; I repainted the whole thing in French blue (AK Interactive), and did some shading using wet blending methods (so I do not use oils only). I found some of the parchment strips hanging from his coat (I have been with this figure since two years ago, and it has moved countries with me half-painted). I painted the details using water-soluble oils, though – they give a nice, transparent effect.

I tried to give some of the iridescent effect to the feathers; I think they turned out OK. I also played with the skin-tones: I did some shades using purple. I have read a long time ago someone mentioning this -and surprisingly it works.

Anyhow, it is finished, and took its place in my cabinet. Off to finishing off the big E, and the other running projects. God, help me find strength not to start new ones until I do.

Artel W Miniatures: Angron, the Red Angel

Well the last one finish first, I guess. (The Emperor is getting ready, and I have trouble with Magnus‘ cape.)

I worked on his face and arms for a little bit more and decided he was finished. (My approach of painting skin tones is to start with dark, and layer on increasingly lightened skin tones, wash, start over, and keep doing it until something approaches acceptable comes out.)

A bit chaotic method, but it is mine.

I know it is not a Golden Demon contender, but I am really pleased how the armor came out, and I even like the skin on this guy. The mini itself is simply great; it is well-cast, has great detail, easy to assemble, and more importantly: it captures Angron’s rage while does not simply paint him as a monster. You can see his pain behind the rage – unlike in the Forgeworld version where he looks more like Gene Simmons with an alternative facepaint. (The book Betrayer is a great one about his character.)

Artel W Miniatures: Angron, the Red Angel, WIP

I normally do not do WIPs for figures because a.) I am not a great painter b.) they are not the main focus of this blog.

But since I have been working on a few since, well, for a while now, I decided to do three WIPs. This is the third: Angron, the Primarch of the World Eaters by Artel W Miniatures. Who did plently of wrong but he never really had a chance. I like his character because he actually had a reason to rebel, and did not just get a lame “touch a daemon possessed sword- boom, you are corrupted” treatment.

I much better like Artel W’s interpretation of him than Forgeworld’s

It just does not look as good

…not to mention the pose is the exact same one as Kharn’s… They both look like they are in a hurry to reach the end of a queue.

The armor was a combination of AK’s True Metal paints in several layers, with washes and oil paints. The leather was done using different browns, and the skin is left to be painted. (I tried oils on there as well, but they did not stick.) I added some chains to the chain-axes (as a gladiator he chained his weapon to his wrist, a custom that was followed by his Legion -and Sigismud, of all people.)

I just need to finish his skin, and I am all set. (I also have Artel W’s bust of him… back when I had more disposable income :D)

This guy will be featured here for sure. One day.

Smart Resin Models: Ethernal Eagle (the Big E himself), WIP

I normally do not do WIPs for figures because a.) I am not a great painter b.) they are not the main focus of this blog.

But since I have been working on a few since, well, for a while now, I decided to do three WIPs. This is the second: The Emperor of Mankind, The Saviour of Humanity, the Epitome of Perfection, who, nevertheless, severely lacked basic parenting skills despite of being, you know, The Epitome of Perfection.

The armor was a combination of AK’s True Metal paints in several layers, with washes and oil paints.

The mini comes with several heads (helmeted, serious, angry, cool -I call him “the Dude”, Space Jesus) and some extras as I ordered the pre-order version; I magnetized them, so they could be switched. (You can order the set in three sizes -this is the smallest, 28mm one. I really wish I had the largest one, but unless I get lucky in the EuroMillions, it will not happen.) I also ordered a set of power claws after the fact to switch it for the flaming sword. (I hope they will come out with a post-heresy version of the Emperor, too.)

I painted the stand using oils on an acrylic base. (Dark primer and blue oil paint.) I am pretty happy with the results – I think I will use oils a lot from now on. The cape is still need to be painted… it is still a bit sticky of the oil paint I used, even though it has been drying for three weeks now- obviously I need to learn a bit more about using oils, and the extra bits also need to be finished. I am pretty happy with the flaming sword- I used oils to make smooth blends here, too. It seems like an easier way than using acrylics.

Forgeworld: Magnus the Red WIP

I normally do not do WIPs for figures because a.) I am not a great painter b.) they are not the main focus of this blog.

But since I have been working on a few since, well, for a while now, I decided to do three WIPs. This is the first: Magnus the Red. Who did nothing wrong. (And I stand by this statement.) This is the pre-heresy form of him; not yet a broken daemon thing with boob-horn-armor.

I left out the whole swirling rubble-thing from the kit because I do not find them convincing; essentially he is done. His knee horn got missing over the years (I started him in the UK a long, long while back), and he has “only” his coat left to paint. Which is going to be challenging, as it has iridescent feathers, and I am not very good with coats anyhow.

I am experimenting with oils for blending.

The armor was a combination of AK’s True Metal paints in several layers, with washes and oil paints.

I quite like how the dark, broken, iridescent glass turned out to be -again, oils dabbed on.

Paint review: AK Interactive True Metal range

I really like these paints. They are wax-based, so they behave more like a gel than a paint, and they handle very well. They do look metallic, their coverage is great, any mistakes can be removed with a bush wetted with turpentine, and they can be mixed easily. For large surfaces I found that they should be diluted with turpentine somewhat, and applied in two coats. Interestingly basecoat does not seem to matter – which is an awesome news as basecoats are very important for most metallics.

According to AK you can polish them to a shine, but I found that any gentle polishing will rub some of the paint off; it does not work for me as well as it is shown in their video. If you rub it, some of it does come off.

So back to my colors. I used gold, old bronze, copper, iron, steel and gun metal on my old Panzer IV hull. I did rub a fine cloth on the lower part to show how it polishes up half an hour after applying the paint – the results are not as good – some of the base coat shows off as the paint rubbet off.

I also repeated the exercise a day later – the paint was more resilient (obviously), but there was no dramatic change in shine. (I took some photos using flash as well, as it does bring out the metallic effect better.) Once completely dry, some gloss varnish for metallics does bring the shine out, though.

There is a relatively big range of metallic colors, but I do have some issues with some of the shades. The gun metal should be much darker in my opinion, and the iron is much shinier than the steel color. Plus a bright chrome paint is missing from the palette. More about shades later.

Photos of the paint in diffused lights

Polishing the paint after 24hrs of drying

I took some photos using the flash as well- it brings the shine out better

(You can see where the paint wore off due to the polishing.)

It is probably a good idea to apply varnish developed for metallic paints if you cover larger surfaces; for my purposes it was not yet important to do so.

So what is the paint good for?

(I use these paints for almost all my metallics: engine parts, worn parts like return rollers, figures -literally anywhere where a metal surface is needed. The ease of application and cleanup makes these paints very attractive for me.)

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Well, it is great for drybrushing -it gives off a great metallic effect on tracks and whatnot. It can be used to simulate the worn metal surface on road wheels, idlers and drive wheels; the application is simple, the effect is convincing. If you make a mistake, the excess paint can be removed with a brush slightly wetted with turpentine, and it really saves time and effort when you have countless of roadwheels and return rollers to paint. It is also very useful to paint headlights.

With the Ford Speedster I found that painting thin lines using gold it was indispensable: any mistakes were easily cleaned up with a wet brush (wet with turpentine, that is), so the end results were nice and straight. This how I could paint the lines on the fender and the Ford sign with relative ease.

They are also great for painting shells…

I mainly use these paints for figure painting – as I said I goes on very well, and any mistakes can be easily corrected. (I am a better model builder than figure painter, mind, even though this does not say a lot.)

I was using a drybrush method to paint the Custodian and Stormcast Ethernals – they are admittedly not finished; I was just experimenting with the paint. (I will give them some more attention at some point.) But the TS Terminators and Abaddon were also painted with True Metal colors. The different shades (gold and old bronze) can be mixed in different quantities resulting in nice blends.

If you want to cover large areas (for example an airplane) use it with an airbrush; this I have never tried.

All in all they are very, very good paints. (I still do not understand how the paint did not rub off in the AK video…)

Now to something interesting. Do you recall I mentioned the gun metal being too bright for my taste? Well, there is something neat you can do with these paints: you can mix them with regular artists’ oil paints… making it possible to either “metalize” any color with an iron/steel, darken the metal color with black or burned umber, or to create different hues of whatever metal color you wish to use. This really expands the usability of these paints – which makes me pretty proud to have thought of this. (Not a big discovery, but still.)

I took a photo in diffused light and using flash. The paint mixes with oil very well; it is a quite promising way of creating metallic shades. Gold mixed with black yields different shades of bronze; iron mixed with black creates dark, gun metal shades; the red was just a random color I wanted to try. The best part is that you can even polish the true metal-oil paint mixes to a shine.

So there it is. Overall I am quite happy with these paints; especially with the option of making my own hues and colors using oils.

Grim Skull Miniatures – Chaos Conqueror Lord

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Now this mini came out as a disappointment. It’s entirely my fault; the mini is awesome, as you can see- and the unpainted, assembled model looks incredible. Too bad I can’t paint.

The only thing I like is the human hide cape; that part came out well. As with yellow, it seems like I really have hard time painting red. And picking up all the tiny details is proving to be impossible. Some serious steps are needed to develop my painting skills for sure. (OK, the camera does not give a fair image of the mini, since you normally do not see this close, but still.)