In a previous post I showed Emperor with his helmet on. I am working on the alternative heads…
I have to say the heads look a bit tiny compared to his body. I left the eyes just white- it suggests some big psychic force, plus saves me trying to paint the iris… Looking at the photos I also need to work a bit more on the skin, but hey, until the new power claw arrives I have some time.
OK, so I watched the following video… I think it is worth sharing.
First of all, I applaud the maker of this model for buying some plastic aftermarket for his metal ship.
I always found it incredible people can and do work with such a great precision in such a small scale. Well, there is part of the explanation in the video: specialized tools to help you. (Not really a surprise but it is nice to actually see it in action.) Regardless I doubt my results were like this if I got all this equipment to work with. Simply astonishing.
OK, so I am pressing ahead with the back of the bus, and had faced some serious issues with the front…
As the manual has you put the bonnet, the radiator, the front of the cab together at very different steps, there will be misalignements. Small problems snowball into larger ones, ending up like this: the front of the cab is pushed back by the back of the engine compartment, the radiator will be pushed front, and the side panels of the engine compartment will not fit.
So I took the whole bloody thing away, and put it back together again, this time as one unit. I also had to shave off about 3mm of the back of the engine compartment (the unit built in step 28) so that it does not put H8 (the front part of the cab) back. This way I managed to fit the side panels of the engine compartment. Victory.
Back to the back.
I built and painted the workbenches. They got a coat of light grey, then a coat of worn effects fluid, followed by dunkelgelb, worn down, applied varnish, applied worn effect fluid, applied Nato black, worn down again. I painted a couple of drawers in red and blue, and then using AK’s old wood I painted chips, scratches, and the wood panels that are visible under the worn paint.
From here on it was the matter of adding some dripping paint (stole the idea), dust, some more paint, and some oil and whatnot which you would expect on a workbench. I kinda like the achieved result.
I also started to fill up the interior; I have to say it is actually a fun thing to do, despite of my earlier reservations.
I realized a sprue was missing from my box, contacted MiniArt, and they sent me a replacement. Great customer service I have to say.
I have a couple of smaller wrenches, etc. left, and then I can close the bus, and start working on the outside. I have to say this build is much more fun than I expected, and I had already had high expectations…
OK, I just realized something (by accident): the solvent in the Mig Ammo filter dissolves the Mig Ammo acrylic paint… Never had this issue with Tamiya paints I normally use, so it must be a Mig Ammo paint specific issue.
If you want to use this as an intentional chipping technique, the trick is to use a brush and gently rub the surface- in no time you will uncover the primer. Now this can be a bad thing, when you do not expect it (like I did not expect it…), but I chose to look at this as a happy little accident.
My Ferdinand is somewhat chipped… although the underlying color is dark grey -not the best for chipping.
Looking at the results I managed to get a rubbed-off, worn effect – not stark chips you would get using salt/hairspray/chipping fluid/sponge. I think I will put this to the other methods I have been experimenting with.
Well, the Ferdinand was almost finished -the tracks were not installed as it made more sense to do after having painted the base color.
I finally bought out the airbrush, and applied Dunkelgelb from Mig Ammo (they have to shades: one until ’44, and a much lighter after ’44 -I used them mixed to give some tonal differences, focusing on the darker shades on the lower part, and putting the lightened layers on top.
While the paint cured, I painted the tracks dark grey, and applied AK’s True Metal Gun Metal on the parts that were subject to constant friction (where the road wheels and drive wheels touch the track links). The rest is treated with a couple of rust washes and a generous amount of dirt and mud.
I also applied mud to the sides of the lower chassis with layers of dust washes from Vallejo and also using Vallejo Thick mud (industrial dust) to give it volume. Once dried I stained some of it with a couple of thin, brownish washes.
This is a pale, greyish colored thick paste, which can be used to give texture to mud. It can also be mixed with different colors (acrylic paints, washes, pigments, etc.) to create darker shades as well. Diluted with water it can be used as a “splashing” mud -a lot of ways to use it. (Cost effective modelling.)
Once all this was dry, I glued the tracks on. The running gear is movable, but I did not have the patience and mindfulness to make the tracks themselves workable -they were fiddly to assemble as it is.
The tracks installed I added the mudgards, and now the model was ready to progress with the camoflage.
I applied silly putty on the top to cover the transparent parts in patches, and then proceeded to paint the green. I wanted to do the green intersecting lines style camo, and for that I should have really started with the green, and used putty to make the lines… but I started with a sand primer (on the top), so went the other way around. It took me about three hours to up the mask up (god bless teams conferences…).
I used a somewhat lightened Model Master olivegrun for the green in several thin layers (to avoid it sweeping under the mask). It was somewhat a stressful moment to take the mask off, but it worked out just well. I quite like the results.
I brush painted the details on top, which were covered by the mask (hatches, etc.) with both Dunkelgelb and Olivegrun, corrected some parts where the mask did not work perfectly, and the first part of the painting was done.
The last step at this stage was to use a dark brown filter by Mig Ammo.
Which led to an interesting discovery: the enamel-based filter dissolves the acrylic paint produced by the same company, leading to an instant chipping/worn paint effect.
I did not plan to do a lot of chipping, but I think I just discovered a new technique for chipping. (Or, alternatively, almost ruined my model. I prefer the former version.)
Next step: weathering this somewhat artificial-looking beast. (By the way, my wife said she liked the way it looked. Out of the blue. Nice…)
Finally it seems like the curse has been broken, and I managed to find inspiration to finish Magnus.
As I mentioned the white cape did not turn out well; I repainted the whole thing in French blue (AK Interactive), and did some shading using wet blending methods (so I do not use oils only). I found some of the parchment strips hanging from his coat (I have been with this figure since two years ago, and it has moved countries with me half-painted). I painted the details using water-soluble oils, though – they give a nice, transparent effect.
I tried to give some of the iridescent effect to the feathers; I think they turned out OK. I also played with the skin-tones: I did some shades using purple. I have read a long time ago someone mentioning this -and surprisingly it works.
Anyhow, it is finished, and took its place in my cabinet. Off to finishing off the big E, and the other running projects. God, help me find strength not to start new ones until I do.
I worked on his face and arms for a little bit more and decided he was finished. (My approach of painting skin tones is to start with dark, and layer on increasingly lightened skin tones, wash, start over, and keep doing it until something approaches acceptable comes out.)
A bit chaotic method, but it is mine.
I know it is not a Golden Demon contender, but I am really pleased how the armor came out, and I even like the skin on this guy. The mini itself is simply great; it is well-cast, has great detail, easy to assemble, and more importantly: it captures Angron’s rage while does not simply paint him as a monster. You can see his pain behind the rage – unlike in the Forgeworld version where he looks more like Gene Simmons with an alternative facepaint. (The book Betrayer is a great one about his character.)
I normally do not do WIPs for figures because a.) I am not a great painter b.) they are not the main focus of this blog.
But since I have been working on a few since, well, for a while now, I decided to do three WIPs. This is the third: Angron, the Primarch of the World Eaters by Artel W Miniatures. Who did plently of wrong but he never really had a chance. I like his character because he actually had a reason to rebel, and did not just get a lame “touch a daemon possessed sword- boom, you are corrupted” treatment.
I much better like Artel W’s interpretation of him than Forgeworld’s
…not to mention the pose is the exact same one as Kharn’s… They both look like they are in a hurry to reach the end of a queue.
The armor was a combination of AK’s True Metal paints in several layers, with washes and oil paints. The leather was done using different browns, and the skin is left to be painted. (I tried oils on there as well, but they did not stick.) I added some chains to the chain-axes (as a gladiator he chained his weapon to his wrist, a custom that was followed by his Legion -and Sigismud, of all people.)
I just need to finish his skin, and I am all set. (I also have Artel W’s bust of him… back when I had more disposable income :D)