Well, this guy has been sitting in a box forgotten, for years. (OK, not forgotten. I did think about painting it a lot.)
Well, after a short time building and painting, he is done. One more long-bought kit off my conscience.
Just a quick post about a disaster.
I did kind of mess up the paint job on a space marine back in the days when I was painting these dudes. I tried to strip the paint using isopropyl alcohol, but it came off in flakes, leaving the surface uneven and blotchy. I was seriously thinking about just throwing the poor guy into the recycling bin- and then came the inspiration.
Who else has blotchy, corroded armor? That’s right… the Death Guard. Since I was planning to paint up Morty and some of his pals, I thought I’d give glazes a try on this fella before I move onto the big guys… And what do you know? It actually came out looking good. Remember people: there are no mistakes, only happy accidents!
The recent advances in 3D printing have created a boom in the cottage industry of resin figures. You can now find better and better quality figures produced for wargaming, and characters from popular culture (books, movies, comics or video games). We do live in a golden age right now, as often times we get alternatives for wargaming miniatures; and sometimes -as in this case- it means we get a figure we want at all. (I would love to have a miniature version of a T-54 power armor from the Fallout series holding a mini nuke launcher, for example, but nobody is making one.)
This miniature by Artel W Miniaturesdepicts such a video game character: the master assassin. He is the ex-bodyguard Corvo Attano, from the game Dishonoured by Bethesda, wearing his signature mask and carrying his signature weapons – without explicitly stating so. Since I tremendously enjoyed the game for both of its gameplay, and for its excellent story and setting, I was happy to order one of these figures when I saw it on Artel W Miniatures’ website.
Basically this guy:
The figure comes in a very impressive package: the box is covered with brown wrapping paper, and sealed with a wax seal giving quite an exclusive feeling to the miniature. The parts are moulded in a very high quality resin with no flash at all. The resin is smooth, almost waxy to the touch, and it’s very nice to work with. There were no bubbles or deformed parts at all.
The pose of the miniature is quite dramatic and very well done; Corvo is caught mid-leap from a building, holding his blade in his hand (presumably in preparation of using it as soon as he lands). The building forms the base for the figure, which makes it look quite stand out, and gives an extra point of interest to the model.
The figure is really easy and quick to assemble. Due to the weapon choices the assembly is greatly helped by looking at in-game screenshots, and photos of the miniature on Artel W’s website. You get some of Corvo’s favorite toys: he has two bone charms tied to his chest, his folding knife (sword?), and a set of optional equipment: a whalebone rune, his miniature crossbow, a holstered handgun, and a holstered rifle. I decided to use the handgun only as I am not sure where the rune should be attached, and the gun should be attached to his back. (I left Corvo’s other hand empty since I assume jumping AND stabbing someone at the same time requires dexterity and balance, which would be upset if he had both his hands full.) The crossbow I decided to use with the Witcher figure- also from Artel W. I did not want to add all the equipment at any rate since the character is supposed to be light and sneaky, and this impression would not be supported if he was carrying half an armoury around his person.
Corvo’s coat looks very natural, as its tail floats after the jumping figure. The base itself is a small section of a ornate rooftop from which the assassin leaps from, and which can be detailed with soot, rain marks, pigeon droppings, moss and dust. The style fits very well into the game’s steam-punk, late 19th century feel.
The painting was relatively easy, since there was no face to paint (which is always difficult no matter the scale). I used different shades of oils on top of Vermin Brown to paint the leather, highlighted with Bestial brown (Citadel range), AK’s True Metal steel for the mask and for the sword (drybrushed over the Vallejo dark grey primer). The buckles were painted with True Metal gold, and the figure was highlighted with a black pin wash I prepared from oil paints. The base was painted using multiple layer of brownish/greyish glazes, with the bricks highlighted with reddish glazes, and the same black wash applied once dry. (I will weather the building some more in the future, though.) The coat looks too shiny on the photos, but in normal, ambient light it only has a somewhat dull shine. (The age-old question of painting for the eye or the camera…)
The only issue coming up during the assembly was that the small peg protruding from Corvo’s foot did not fit into the base’s corresponding hole; I had to trim it. That’s it – the only problem with the model…
I always loved the dark, hopeless world of Warhammer 40K (look up Grimdark when you have some time).
This is an universe where even the good guys are worse than any actual historical monster you can think of: a collection of xenophobic, genocidal maniacs in different shapes of forms -and that’s only the Imperium of Man. Superhuman, gene crafted soldiers who think themselves as actual Ubermensch, the Imperial Guard, an armed force that throws millions into the meatgrinder without a thought, and of course the shadowy and all powerful Inquisition that oversees the civilian aspects of life in the Imperium. Add to this all the external threats: aliens, renegades and heretics, and you have an empire that is held together by tape and strings, threatened by multiple external and internal forces each of which could spell its doom it by itself, let alone together. So what’s not to love?
There’s a huge collection of books published by Black Library set in this universe; and a large portion of them are frankly no better than some badly written fan-fiction. However there are gems which are great on their own rights, and they are absolutely worth reading and re-reading. The Eisenhorn Trilogy is one of these book series which is a really, really good story regardless of its origins. (Space fantasy tends to be looked down upon by the “purists” of the SF genre, hence the second part of the sentence.)
The series detail the journey of an Imperial Inquisitor, Gregor Eisenhorn from a young idealist on the path of corruption and ruination. Due to external circumstances and small, seemingly unimportant or small actions and choices of his own he becomes something he would have recognised (and executed without a thought) as a heretic in his youth. The story is complex, and quite an interesting one; after all, the same path is trodden by many people who acquire power. Why I like the story (apart of the quality of writing, of course) is how easily it can be transposed onto our own real world: very few people start out with the intention of becoming corrupt, or do evil. Corruption comes gradually with seemingly small and insignificant steps, yet it will twist the person beyond recognition. (Not to mention Eisenhorn remains true to his mission: fighting for humanity, which adds an extra layer of complexity to the story.)
Since I love the story, I wanted to make an Eisenhorn figure, of course, which can be an issue in WH40. Not all characters have figures available, not to mention the silly poses (it seems like everyone and their mother are shouting and pointing at stuff in the grim future). It is fair enough because they WERE made for a tabletop game, but for a modeller it’s a definite problem if you want your figures in a more dignified (and realistic) pose. In case of this specific figure the pose is actually quite nice (and he has his signature sword), the proportions are good, but the problem is that the figure is out of production and hard to get. Not to mention it depicts our favourite inquisitor towards the end of the trilogy; I prefer him in his prime.
Enter the blooming resin industry. There are several companies producing alternatives, conversions for the WH40/Warhammer games; these are miniatures that are not nearly enough similar to the originals to be considered as copyright infringements, but they are close enough to be clear what they supposed to represent. A lot of these conversions and figures are produced because there are holes in the market (if there is no available set by GW; for example conversion sets for space marines for specific legions or chapters), or straight-out improvements. In case of the Chaos Rhino, Mortarion or Abaddon figure in my opinion they are definite improvements, for example. And now we review Eisenhorn, produced by a Russian company, Artel W Miniatures. (Shortly after this figure was issued, WG announced that they were coming out with a new Eisenhorn figure, so now we have three… Choice is a good thing.)
The name of the miniature is very close to the originals, so it is abundantly clear who it refers to, even if you don’t know the iconic painting of the inquisitor (which actually inspired the books according to the author). The figure essentially copies the artwork: we have Eisenhorn strolling forward with a gun and a tube in his hand, his runestaff mounted on his back. (This setup puts the figure to the last few chapters of the second book, or the first chapters of the third.)
The figure comes in a very impressive package: a box wrapped in brown paper with a wax seal… I have to say I felt quite reluctant to open it, as it had this exclusive feel to the whole set. It’s a feel definitely something you don’t really get when you get a blister pack. (Admittedly it’s not a priority when you buy something, but still.) The paper covers a cardboard box, which contains the few pieces of the model itself, sealed in ziplock bags.
The model consists the torso with the cape, the lower part of the body, the two arms and the runestaff. His iconic power sword is not included, but to be fair it’s not on the original artwork, either. Regardless, he should have Barbarisater on his hip. (Quite possibly the tube could be replaced with a sword.) Despite of the small size of the figure the detail is very fine and impressive; the chains, the folds of his clothes, the inquisitorial rosette, the gun are all very well defined. The expression on his face (which is anatomically well proportioned) is quite grim, but this is the only appropriate expression for him, as you will learn from the books if you have not read them already, so that’s quite on the money, too.
The assembly is very quick. There’s very little cleanup required: mostly the parts where the torso meets the lower body. There is no flash on the bits. The arms fit into their slots well.
Painting was a joy- but I am not a master by all means. Only after looking at the photos do you realise how hard it is to paint a miniature on a professional level for the box art (like the above examples of GW’s minis). When you look at this figure with your eyes it actually looks pretty good. Once you bring out the macro can you see the imperfections and mistakes. Oh well. I can always claim to be an amateur.
The leather overcoat was base colored using snakebite leather, and then layered lots of different brown oil paints on top, trying to achieve the leather effect. The cloth underneath was painted regal blue, the trousers antracite, and the boots gloss black. The stash and the parchment of the purity seal was painted white, and were given a coat of brown filter. The metallic details were painted with AK Interactive’s True Metal gold and steel.
The runestaff was painted with a mixture of these metal paints; the skull in the middle was painted deep green, and some random smears of lighter green and black, covered with nuln oil. (It was supposed to be carved from a warp-infused stone. There you go: here, on this blog only, the sole accurate Eisenhorn Miniature in existence…)
Basically, that’s it. It’s a high quality miniature of an iconic character from the WH40K universe; if you missed the original “official” figure, or don’t like the newer one, now is your chance to get one for your collection. His nemesis/ally, Cherubael is coming soon.
The world of tabletop gaming has given us better and better detailed miniatures over the years, along with increasingly detailed universes through media like books, comics and computer games. One of my favorite is…
Warhammer 40K. The picture above will make it clear why.
There are enormous gaps in the “official” miniature offerings in the available fractions, and also what is available tends to be somewhat expensive. A lot of smaller companies spotted these gaps on the market, and started to produce similar-but-not-quite-the-same miniatures that are not available from either Games Workshop or Forgeworld, usually for a friendlier price.
Mortarion did receive an official figure by GW, and another by Forgeworld, but I did not like either of those versions. The WH30K (pre-Heresy or Herey era) Forgeworld model did not really resonate with me, and the daemon prince figure looks very different from the man he used to be, twisted and bloated beyond recognition. In case of Mortarion it is an issue. True, the Primarch of the Death Guard Legion had fallen to Chaos, and has been turned into a Daemon Prince since the Horus Heresy. However the lore makes it clear that he is the one Primarch (alongside with Magnus, possibly) who remained as close to human as possible. Grimm Skull Miniatures has issued a Mortarion model that can be used both as a pre-daemon prince Primarch before or during the Heresy, or as a full-fledged daemon-prince (essentially the same figure plus two big, leathery wings). Yes, you can say it’s just lazy marketing. However since he is the most human of the daemon princes, and fans still debate if he could even return to the side of the Emperor again, as his red brother did, there IS a good argument for Grim Skull Miniatures’ choice.
The figure- as all of Grim Skull Miniatures figures I’ve seen so far- is very well sculpted and detailed. These figures are close enough to the “official” GW/Forgeworld aesthetics, but they also differ enough to look novel and unique; frankly I quite like how most of their figures look. The overall outline of power armor mixed with twisting and turning organic shapes look the way I imagine the Chaos-touched warriors. Talking about Magnus: there is also a figure that looks suspiciously like the Cyclops, only Grim Skull took him towards the Maya/Aztec aesthetics instead the ‘traditional’ Egyptian. (I’m not sure what to feel about the overemphasised feminine figures though, but if you like Tau pin-up girls and sexy female chaos space marines, here’s your chance.)
Mortarion, or Morty for his friends, looks exactly like his description in the Horus Heresy books. A gaunt man in an ornate, baroque power armor, with a cape covering his head, and censers hanging from his armor on chains. He has his power scythe Silence, however he does not have his handgun, Lantern. This is a glaring omission of the model; the gun is a prominent feature of the Primarch. Otherwise I do like it better than the pre-daemon Forgeworld figure, or the daemon prince GW model; he does radiate a sort of dark, solemn majesty with his ragged wings and elaborately decorated, corroded armor.
He comes with a pretty nice base to stand on with a broken pipe leaking who-knows-what. (It must be something corrosive because there is a skull in it.) We do get two such pipes; I used the extra with another Death Guard figure.
The assembly of these figures is usually a breeze. I did not like the original pose, because Morty looks like a particular shepherd the way he holds Silence. I turned his arm a bit to make it look more dynamic, although the attachment point is not designed to hold the arm well at this angle. (A scythe is an unbelievably impractical weapon at any rate; at least he should have straightened it, a’la revolting peasants. I think the Death Guard really puts style over effectiveness, when it comes to weaponry.)
The big issue, however, was the wings. There are simply no attachment points where they can be glued to, and the surface touching the back of the figure is so small, it was difficult to secure them even with small wires drilled into them.
The painting stage is usually where these models are made or ruined, and I have to confess I’m not a master painter. My main interests are armored vehicles, so my skills at blending and painting small details by brush leave much to be desired. I don’t particularly stick to the “Games Workshop School of Figure Painting” with the high contrasts and very fine layering/glazing, either. Since I have the daemon prince version, I did not paint him in clean, pre-Heresy colors; he got the full grime, rust and corruption treatment.
I used Vallejo’s black primer as a first coat, and used Lahman medium to create glazes in various browns and greens. I kept adding the glazes in very thin coats until I liked the greenish-brownish hue.
The bronze parts were painted using True Metal gold first (on larger surfaces I dry-brushed it on to keep the black as shadows in the recesses), and then followed it with several layers of oxidized bronze green colors as glazes. As finishing touch I reapplied the gold on rivets, thin edges, and other surfaces where the oxidised metal would be rubbed off.
The different pipings on the armor were painted with dark blue glazes to create a slightly different color without too big of a contrast.
I was uncertain of what colors the wings should have: they look like a cross between an insect’s wing and a bat’s. I did not want them to stand too much out of the general effect, so they got mostly the same treatment as the rest of the figure. The wings received a purple glaze, and the insectoid wing structure was shaded with ochre and brown oil paint blended into the base dry; it does look slightly iridescent and chitinous.
The tabard/cloak Morty is wearing got a similar layering treatment, only in this case I used a white base and added mostly brown colors. As a chaos prince of Nurgle, the god of disease, he can’t really be expected to have a spotless, white attire. (Having one at all is pretty silly since it would get caught in everything and anything.) I added further highlights, shading and discolorations using oil paints. After weeks of drying it is still somewhat shiny… This is a good lesson on getting out the linseed oil out of the oil paint before using it. (Just put a blob of paint onto a piece of cardboard and wait a few hours… Next time I will not skip on this step.) Right now I’ll go with the “can’t you see it’s leather??” defence. It turned out a bit darker than I would like, but there it is. As I said I’m not the best of figure painters.
The base was painted similarly to the figure: several layers of dark grey and brown glazes over black primer, then a little steel and gold True Metal paint drybrushed on here and there. The rubble got a bit of a rust and dust pigments, and the bronze areas got the same treatment as Morty’s armor.
Overall I really like the results -even with my admittedly limited skills managed to make it out into an impressive renderition of this
So, my first ever 1/35 diorama; I used it as a trial for the T-62 dio I’m planning. (The first statement is not entirely true; I did do a snowed-in Mobelwagen long time back, but a small snowy vista is hardly a complex diorama.) It started without a concept; I had two figures and a bunch of equipment to use, so I made use of them… The scene -in retrospect- depicts a Zrinyi II in a prepared position somewhere on the Eastern Front in late Fall/early Spring (probably in 1943, as they are not fleeing). Two German soldiers are discussing the tactics, while one of the tankers is sitting on the tank, uninvolved, having a smoke. Not very dramatic, but there you go. I finally got to use the German figures which -as you might have guessed by now- were sitting in my collection since 2007 gathering dust. The Hungarian tanker came from Bodi.
Disclaimer: I had no idea what I was doing when I started. (I’m not sure I do now.)
One thing is for sure: I’ve learned a lot about how to “populate” a diorama.
The first steps were adding the textured base from Tamiya. It’s supposed to be mud colored, but it’s not very convincing; the color and texture looks something entirely else. Something better would be needed.
I went out to the garden, gathered up some dried-out soil, and mixed it with plaster; using this mixture I added some terrain irregularities. (The German figures came with a small base which needed to be blended in the rest of the scene.) I used a couple of boxes and fuel barrels as well to make the scene look busier. Because the plaster made the color of the earth I used, I went over the whole scene with my airbrush several times using different earth tones. The tank was in place by then, but the little overspray actually helps in this case; it blends in the mud on the lower chassis with the soil. I made some more mixture of soil (and much less plaster), which was “flicked” onto the lower part of the screens on the side. I loaded up a stiff brush, and created the splatters using a toothpick (it is not difficult, but first try which direction you need to move the toothpick to make sure the mud ends up on the tank…) As with everything: the layers are the key. Several slightly different colors were added in several light layers – it adds to the realism of the weathering.
The other issue with the soil was that it cracked as it dried. It was a fortunate thing for me- it does look like real McCoy. In this case I can claim that it was totally intentional. Absolutely. However if I want to produce a groundwork that is not cracked, I might be in trouble. Experimentation is in order I feel; this is where shortcuts, like pre-made mixtures can help.
I have bought a bunch of different diorama products to prepare the vegetation. The self-adhesive grass patches looked much better once I used the airbrush to spray some brown color on them. The laser-cut shrub has an unfortunate, unnatural color; green and brown oil colors helped to make them resemble actual living plants.
The figures were painted over several years, really; I’m not much of a figure painter. For the face (the most problematic area) I used Citadel’s different flesh colors in layers. I had to get a replacement head for the sitting figure, as the original was lost.
As a last step I put some fallen leaves and other plant detritus into the scene. There’s a tree which has a long, caterpillar-like seed-pod. (Despite of being a biologist I have absolutely no clue what the tree is called… As soon as I figure out I’ll amend this post.) When you crumb it up, it falls apart, and some parts do look like fallen leaves. I mixed these in with some strongly diluted white spirit, and placed it all over the base. Small details like that actually made this scene a lot more realistic.
Well, I’ve been trying my hands on sculpting using several different mediums. The best so far were the oven bake clay products; here’s the first attempt on a serious subject: the Great One himself, Cthulhu. (If you haven’t yet read the Call of Cthulhu, please do. I’ll wait.)
Since then it turned out “Hello Cthulhu” is a thing; nevertheless I’m pretty pleased about how my cute Horror from the Deep turned out. It seems like you can cutify just about anything.
This one was one of my very first -and so far last- attempt of figure sculpting. I’ve seen what amazing things people could do using miliput and green stuff, so I thought I’d give it a try. Well, spoiler alert: it ain’t easy to make professional looking things out of these two-part, self-hardening clays. Or perhaps I don’t know the secret yet.
Anyway. Get on with the build.
I had no real concept in the beginning; I knew I did not want to do an actual person, as making faces is way out of my league.
I started with an armored torso. I was thinking more of a Roman style armor, but this is how it came out. The issue is the delicate details and the problems of making smooth, evenly curved surfaces out of the clay. I’ve tried using miliput to add intricate details, as I’ve seen on many message boards, but failed; eventually I settled on using tin foil to add some trimming and whatnot. All of which is lost under the paint. (Not that it’s a great problem; they did not look very good, anyway.)
I was experimenting with the Great Cthulhu, but honestly, it just does not work.He is not the screaming type. He is the type that makes you scream. So the Great One is out.
Back to the basics, then: a skull.
I realized very quickly that you cannot make it in one go -it had to be created over several steps, with a lot of waiting in between, while the clay set. So I first made the upper skull’s basic form. I used a Dremel tool to hollow out the eye sockets and the nose cavity. Onto the skull came the ridges around the eye, the nose cavity, added the teeth, then the jaw, which were later supplied with teeth, and finally, muscles. I did wanted to depict something with muscles still on -a living dead warrior, if you like. Since it was more simian looking than human, I’ve decided to make it into an orc.
Some larger muscles added. I tried to be anatomically sensible (I did learn anatomy, after all).
The pose was also an issue: I wanted something dramatic. The soundless scream at the sky does look somewhat dramatic I think. Along with the spinal column, some of the larger neck muscles were needed, to make sure our living dead orc can actually move his head.
Primer applied… details corrected… primer applied again. This process is endless; you just decide after a while that you had enough.
Since the armor is most obviously not smooth and even, it must be either leather (aged, wet and decayed), or rusted iron. I still can’t decide; they, however, look the same. I’ve used a pretty cool product to paint it: paint with suspended iron particles treated with an oxidizer.
I’ve added muscles to the hand-bones as well. Since you usually wear some sort of clothing under your armor, I’ve made some thin clay pieces, and attached them under the shoulder guards, representing the rotting, ragged undercloth. It’s actually quite fun making very thin clay pieces: using talcum powder, you can use a bottle or anything round to simply roll it out as thin as you can. The powder will make sure it will not stick to anything while you are pressing and rolling. (Pro tip. The only one I can give you. The rest is amateurish improvisation…
The painting process on the muscles and bones. The muscles needed to be raw red color; like the color of a raw steak. The bone was to be ivory colored; after all, only very dry, very bleached bone turns white.
The muscles were first painted in deep red, and then some burnt umber oil paint was very thinly smeared on them; the oil paint is translucent, so it acted as a filter. Once dry, I used some black washes lightly to bring out the fibers I’ve scratched into the clay while it was still pliable.
The bone parts received several layers of yellow and ochre colored washes; they did turn out looking like fresh bone. The teeth were painted white.
I’ve made several smaller skulls (more human-proportioned ones, too), and mounted our struggling orc warrior waist deep in a mound made of earth, corral rock, and skulls. I’ve used a baseball-display case to put the whole thing into. I’ve treated a copper chain with oxidizer, to make it look ancient, and here you are: a noble orc warrior condemned to suffer chained down, buried, his spirit unable to leave his body after death. I don’t know his story, but I’m fairly certain he’ll break free and wreak terrible vengeance on those responsible for his suffering. (I wanted to make him into someone you can actually feel for. To be honest, I think Tolkien was horribly unfair to orcs.)
The conclusion? I do like the result; it was not exactly planned, but nevertheless it does look as if I knew what I was doing. (I assure you it was not the case.)
However, it did make me appreciate the difficulties of sculpting. When you see what people are able to do with green stuff, milliput or any other sculpting clay, it looks magical, and moreover, it looks simple; after all, the clay is easily formed, so you should be able to make it look like anything you want, right?
Wrong. First of all, the clay is somewhat rigid; I expected them to be more pliable. Making delicate details is not impossible (after all, people do make amazing things), but it’s not as easy as it looks.
Second, it sticks to everything; you put a small detail onto the piece, you try to push it down with a tool or a toothpick, and it comes up. Wetting your tools helps somewhat (wetting with water, that is; don’t think I don’t know what you were thinking about), but then, if the water gets onto the surface of the piece, nothing will stick to it, either.
Patience is the key here: you add one detail, you wait for a day until it cures. Then you add another. And another. Also: don’t be as arrogant as I was, and find tutorials how to do this; after all, people are making incredibly detailed statues, busts and anything you can think of, while all I was able to do is an -admittedly cool looking- creature which does not exist, so nobody can point out the inaccuracies and clumsy execution. If I tried to make a bust of Angelina Jolie, the results would be less appealing to the eyes, I promise you. (Although it might have looked something similar; perhaps this is the way to go to make novel creatures nobody has ever seen before; to break the mould so to speak. Instead of using one’s imagination, just depend on one’s incompetence.)
This is one character who started out as a gigantic tosser, and ended up being an ever bigger one. With the Heresy what is most interesting is to see what drives people to turn against the Imperium. Sometimes these choices are agonizing for the characters who make them; and you cannot really help but feel sympathy towards them, even after they become a twisted caricature of their former self. (Think about Lorgar himself; or Khran, who already was featured here.)
Thypon (or later known as Thypus) has, however, never been a nice person. Always arrogant, always sneering, always self-righteous; it’s hard to find anything likeable about the guy. (He does sport some amazing beard, though.) Let’s face it, he is somewhat of a one-dimensional anti-hero.
Nevertheless, the Forgeworld figure is just incredibly good-looking. The heavy stride of someone in heavy a Terminator armour captured incredibly well. You can hear the footsteps, you can feel the tremor of the earth, and you can clearly see that this armour was not designed to be jogging in it. It also looks pretty realistic; my biggest issue with older iterations of Terminator armours is that they look unwieldy; just look at an old Games Workshop Abaddon figure to see what I mean. He literally is forced to keep his arms up in a threatening pose, because he cannot physically bring them lower towards his torso. (Which is good if you want to threaten someone, but bad, if you want to actually do anything else. Like moving.) The new Forgeworld Terminator figures -while it’s clear that the wearer will not do splits in them any time soon- look more realistic as power armours go.
The kit is also a good starting point for the character himself. This is the original state from which he got corrupted into a plague Marine, harbinger of disease and corruption.
Citadel Finecast did come out with a Chaos corrupted Typhus before, and you can see the similarities between the figures.
The sculptor at Forgeworld used this figure as a basis, and he made an excellent work.
Since the Death Guard is under the influence of the Lord of Decay, Nurgle, they are quite foul creatures. I tried to depict the beginnings of receiving the favours of this Chaos god might look like: the originally granite-grey armour got a yellowish sheen, representing a thin layer of filth, quite possibly excreted by the amour itself. He has made his first step in the path of corruption. I’ve also used transparent paints I use normally to simulate fuel stains on tanks. One brilliant thing I realized was that the usual problem with washes (namely the wash dries in a way that the pigments in the wash flow towards the edges of the wet area away from the cracks, which look bad if you use the wash to accent shadows) actually look pretty on-spot with Typhon -after all, his armour does excrete some foul substances, which will dry in patches on the surface.
Scratches in white, and white highlights helped to bring out the details; I’ve also used very thin dark washes to further enhance the whole oily-filthy impression. Most of the metallic parts were painted in dark, oxidated tin color, although not yet in the greenish hues of old, oxidated bronze. The edge of the Power Scythe was highlighted with light blue/white to represent the force-field; perhaps I should redo it in green to stick to the whole corruption/disease theme. (Blue is always a color of purity; glowing green, however, is usually reserved for containers of super-diseases and biological weapons in popular lore.)
To be honest, the base caused the most problems; I just could not get the colors right. I tried different greys to depict the broken concrete, but it just did not look “real”. The breakthrough came when I realized that the “right” look can only be achieved using layers and layers of different grays and browns. I’ve kept drybrushing with different colors (metallic colors included at places), using different highlights, adding filters, washes and pigments; after about a month of working on it on and off, I decided it looked good enough to stop.
Well, here he is, striding into corruption, massacring loyalist forces with his arm-mounted flame-thrower/chemical weapon. (I think flames would be too “pure” for a Nurgle-champion; it must be some chemical contortion that melts metal as well as flesh. Whatever it is, it looks pretty cool, although I do suspect the short barrel causes some accidental drips onto his own armour now and then.)
Since the Horus Heresy book series started Forgeworld also started issuing miniatures of the most prominent characters. I don’t like all of them, but most are actually pretty awesome (and expensive). Like this guy: Kharn. (Who is a swell guy as we know.)
His character in itself -along his friend, Argel Tal- is one of my favourites. Kharn knowingly slides into corruption because of his loyalties. He is a noble warrior (as far as any Astrates can be noble; let’s face it, all of those guys are kind of dicks), who somehow retains fragments of his nobility even when he turns traitor. You can understand why he betrays the Imperium, and to be honest, he kind of has a point, too.
He is aware of the corruption as it happens to him, and this makes him cynical and disillusioned, as he knows he has no choice in the matter. All of his choices were taken away from him by the Emperor of Mankind (who is either incompetent or just plain stupid), and his damaged Primarch (who should have been put down as soon as he was discovered for the good of everyone, himself included).
Anyhow, since I liked the character I bought the figure. The pose is pretty dynamic (unfortunately Angron’s –another available figure from this series- pose is the mirror image of his), the quality is excellent, and you get a couple of options, too. (Helmet on/helmet off, and different weapons.) I’ve left out the second figure that came in this set. He had his helm caved in, his arm cut off, blood squirting; I felt this was an unnecessary addition. The leaping, axe-wielding Astrates would be perfectly enough to convey the berserker savagery of the World Eater; blood splatters and dead bodies flying around was not needed. (This is why I opted for the helmeted head –it’s scarier to see the contrast of an impassive mask, and the brutal, mad frenzy of Kharn.)
This is the first time I painted anything in white, which was not very easy, truth be told. The figure was first painted with grey primer, and then several light layers of white Citadel paint was added. I used very thin filters of dirt and grey colors to make the armor look used and dirty. Whenever the effects were overdone (several instances) I went back to correct them with white. This actually created a nice, layered look. I also tried to avoid “clean” colors –everything should look dirty, oily and damaged, as our friend probably does not spend as much time with patient armor maintenance as he should be. It’s probably not the “official” GW paint style, but to be honest I was quite satisfied with the results. (Except for the plasma gun. That gun will need some more work looking at the photos…)