ACE Model 1/72 AMX-13/75 part 2.


Part 1. 

Well, the painting stage was long, protracted and not very well documented; I apologize for that.


Regardless: as usual, the model was primed with Vallejo’s acrylic primer, and then I chose a green color that was the closest to the Bolivian scheme I chose from the instructions. (The temptation was high to use a fictional, World of Tanks camo, but this model was for review, so I stuck with a historical one.)

The top of the model got the same green with some yellow added to lighten it up, and form a sort of zenithal lightning.

The canvas was painted with bestial brown by Citadell, and highlighted with buff and bestial brown. The handles were painted in a light green color (the filters lessened the contrast later on). Using sponge and a 00 brush I added some faint paint chips using Vallejo’s German black brown mixed with green on areas where I thought the heavy wear would damage the paint (the thin metal of the tool boxes, around hatches, on the edges, etc.).

After that it was dark brown washes, some highlights added with a fine brush, and then I used a couple of green and brown filters made from oil paints and ZestIt. The dust on the top surfaces and mud on the lower chassis (I did not want to have an overly muddy vehicle) was done using Vallejo’s dust washes and pigments. Again: once applied, you wait a bit, and remove, blend and adjust for a realistic look. Once done I sealed the paint with a flat varnish, and used a silver pencil on the edges to give the model a metallic look.


All-in-all, this was a really nice little model with good detail; no complaints at all.

7 thoughts on “ACE Model 1/72 AMX-13/75 part 2.”

  1. Nice work, especially at that scale. Patience I don’t have.
    What ratio of yellow do you add if you don’t mind my asking?


    1. Thank you for your kind words (honestly, I need more patience with the 1500+ part kits… there is a reason why the RFM Panther is still under construction.) The amount of yellow (you can use tan or buff as well) is not much; a few drops in the airbrush’s reservoir. Usually there is a third step with a few drops more, and this is only used on the very top of the model. I know that people who use color modulation use a much bigger contrast between the base and the highlight colors, but I personally have not yet dared to go that way… I use a more subtle transition.


    1. Thank you 🙂 One thing is for sure. If I ever win the lottery, I will buy a real one. It is just the right size: still a tank, but not too big not to be road legal. (In Norfolk I once saw two T-34s parking on a field from the train… that would be fun, too.)


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